Spey & Dee Fly Tutorial By Cameron Derbyshire
Antique Hook Posters By Ron Reinhold
Are These Blacker Flies? (Part II)
Blacker's Wings & How to Make Them By Martin Bach
Design of flies..Going with the FLOW by Aaron Ostoj
Dyeing with Natural Dyes By Charles Vestal
Facts and Folklore About Hooks By Ron Reinhold
From Anton Rist an Evangeline Variation
From Bud Guidry Elegant Simplicity
From Dave McNeese an Orange Heron and Pearl Peril
From David White A Sir Richard
From Edwin Rist A Green Highlander & Pyrite
From Gordeaux The Mary O and Purple Infusion
From Kyle Hand A Blue Baron Variation
From Stefano Farkas No 1 A Golden Lady & Popham
From Stefano Farkas No 2 A Greenhighlander & Butcher
From Stefano Farkas No 3 A Baron & Childers
From Stefano Farkas No 4 A jumbo Popham
From Stefano Farkas No 5 Three Doctors
From Stefano Farkas No 6 A Jock Scott
Growing Your Own Silk Gut by Jim Blais
Indian Crow / Red-Ruffed Fruit Crow
Indian Crow Subs by Don Colman
Lt. Col. Reid's Materials Order
Making a Chute Wing Setter by Don Colman
National Geographic Silk Gut Article
Notes on Salmon Fly Storage By David White
Raising Heritage Turkeys By Kyle Hand
Tapered Floss Underbodies By Stefano Farkas
The 2004 International Fly Tying Symposium
The high cost of tying Atlantic Salmon Flies today?
The Pine Meadow House Gang or A Fly Tyer?s Excellent Adventure
The Tinsel Belt by Tero Lannes
Tinsel Bodies by Wayne Luallen
Toppings and Tails by David White
Stefano Farkas is as meticulous a tyer. One only has to visit his page in my FRIENDS section to see that. Click STEFANO if you haven't seen his work. Just about 1 month ago (Oct 2004) he sent me the first pictures of flies he had dressed. Included was this series showing the Golden Lady. He indicated at the time this fly was "My great favorite" (I can see why). It is tied on a Reinhold 10/0 Harrison Bartleet Hook. The fact that he supplied several photos of the tying steps was intriguing to me but also answered a question of minor importance. At first glance, when looking at the completed fly, I thought the first sets of tippets were inverted in that the curvature was flowing away from the fly rather than into it. I will get into that in greater detail in a forthcoming article on underwings. When I took a closer look at photo 1 I realized he had them inverted intentionally to allow the natural curvature of the tippets to follow the curvature of the tail and hook bend. The subsequent sets of tippets were then placed so the curvature flowed into the fly. The man truly is an artist with a desire to tie Salmon Flies.
Stefano's comment on the Golden Lady: "Clearly, the golden Lady derived from the Tippetwitchet which I have tyed before it. One thing I immediately noticed in the TW was the fact that is conceived in two different levels ( over and under the hook shank) while the usual classic concept requires an use of the upper part of the hook principally.
Click on the thumbnails below to enlarge the image.
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With the Golden Lady I wanted to stress the concept of a double level with the symmetry of the wings, of the tails, of the shoulders, cheeks and horns which I all doubled. The result can?t be perfectly symmetric because we are conditioned by the curve of the hook and this is why I was obliged to tye the tippets in a unusual way, as you noticed."
The next set of "a fly in stages" I received from Stefano was the Popham. The Popham happens to be my Favorite Classic Fly in fact I use a Popham drawn by my mother as part of my business logo. Stefano included the following: "The hook is, as usual, a Harrison&Bartleet 8/0 long shank by Ron Reinhold. To substitute indian crow I used brest feathers of the B/Y macaw dyed on the tip with Veniard?s red."
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A friend of mine made some flattering comments regarding Stefano?s use of Golden Pheasant including "I wonder if he would share his secretes?" which I passed along to Stefano. His reply was immediate and straight forward and I will share it with all who care to read: "Regarding the topping with GP crests, it is very simple: I just follow Mike Radencich suggestion in his book! I put the crests, dirty and dull, in lukewarm water and some mild soap for a couple of hours. Wash well with cold water and then the crests must lay on a piece of plexiglass. I put a big care on giving to them the right curve that must be a little flat. I don?t touch them until they are completely dry which will take some hours.
If I can give a personal suggestion I would say that the most important thing in tying a Classic Salmon fly is the tail, because it is conditioning the final shape: if it is too short or too long or with the wrong curve, the fly can?t be a good fly. I like flies with a low wings profile an so the tail must be at the right low level ( curving up only a little ) to give then a perfect ellipse with the topping. I am tying now in this way: my first flies were not well proportioned but it takes time to learn the skill and we must never be completely satisfied of the results or we will not improve our work.
Again regarding the tail, Mike suggest to use one or two long crests because they have a natural flat curve, more than the short-ones.I agree.
I hope this could give an help to your friend."