Spey & Dee Fly Tutorial By Cameron Derbyshire

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Antique Hook Posters By Ron Reinhold

Are These Blacker Flies?

Are These Blacker Flies? (Part II)

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Blacker's Wings & How to Make Them By Martin Bach

Boston Fly Plate

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Design of flies..Going with the FLOW by Aaron Ostoj

Dyeing with Natural Dyes By Charles Vestal

Facts and Folklore About Hooks By Ron Reinhold

Flies In Stages

From Anton Rist an Evangeline Variation

From Bud Guidry Elegant Simplicity

From Dave McNeese an Orange Heron and Pearl Peril

From David White A Sir Richard

From Edwin Rist A Green Highlander & Pyrite

From Gordeaux The Mary O and Purple Infusion

From Kyle Hand A Blue Baron Variation

From Kyle Hand a Jock Scott

From Stefano Farkas No 1 A Golden Lady & Popham

From Stefano Farkas No 2 A Greenhighlander & Butcher

From Stefano Farkas No 3 A Baron & Childers

From Stefano Farkas No 4 A jumbo Popham

From Stefano Farkas No 5 Three Doctors

From Stefano Farkas No 6 A Jock Scott

Growing Your Own Silk Gut by Jim Blais

Hatches Magazine

Indian Crow / Red-Ruffed Fruit Crow

Indian Crow Subs by Don Colman

JEC Silk Floss

Lt. Col. Reid's Materials Order

Making a Chute Wing Setter by Don Colman

National Geographic Silk Gut Article

Niagra Falls 2007

Notes on Salmon Fly Storage By David White

Photography Light Station

Raising Heritage Turkeys By Kyle Hand

Rare Heritage Turkey

Stonehenge

Tapered Floss Underbodies By Stefano Farkas

Test for 07

The 2004 International Fly Tying Symposium

The high cost of tying Atlantic Salmon Flies today?

The Pine Meadow House Gang or A Fly Tyer?s Excellent Adventure

The Tinsel Belt by Tero Lannes

Thread Trap by Wayne Luallen

Tinsel Bodies by Wayne Luallen

Tony's Gems by Anthony Smith

Tony's Gems....Gallery

Toppings and Tails by David White

Tying The Gordon by Cameron Derbyshire

What's New Archives

Wing Length-Barb to Hook Ratio


NOTES ON SALMON FLY STORAGE AND TRANSPORT

The modern tyer of classic salmon flies rarely fishes the full dress creations and unless one is prone to giving them all away to friends and on-lookers they will soon begin to stack up. Storage and transport of hair wing flies, Speys, Dees, steelhead flies and others destined for use is simple ? yet another series of fly boxes.

The full dress display fly represents a different problem in that they are also small works of art that one wants to protect and yet examine and periodically show to others. Some of these can be framed, but that can get expensive and may lead to marital fraction unless one is lucky enough to have a private den in which to hang a multitude of framed flies. The problem then presents itself as to how best to store and transport those delicate creations not destined for framing.

? One answer lies in the Riker mount historically employed for butterfly and insect collections. These inexpensive glass-fronted fiberboard frames show flies to good effect and also protect them by supporting the fly on a bed of white polyester bunting. They can be purchased in a variety of sizes to hold one fly or a small collection. The only detraction is that these mounts will tend to flatten and compress the natural curvature of three dimensional components such as veilings and horns. A moth ball or two can be placed out of sight in the corner of Riker mounts to inhibit insect residence in the mount.

? Two-piece clear plastic boxes used to store baseball cards also work very well for salmon fly storage, handling and transport. They are my preferred method of storage for the majority of my growing collection of full dress flies. The 50-count boxes (0.6? x 2.75?x 3.75?) cost only about $0.35 each, and can easily accommodate a full dress fly up to size 9/0. Smaller flies can double up in a single box. If laid on a flat shelf or table, these boxes are adequate as is for fly storage and display. Lining the bottom half with a rectangle of white felt will aid in presenting the flies to good effect.

? However, before being suitable for any significant handling or travel, a method to ?fix? the fly within the box is necessary. I have found that a very simple modification works quickly and effectively, the flies are durably fastened within the bottom half of the box, and requires no special materials or tools.

o Photo 1. - Drill a small (1/16th inch) hole on either side of the box bottom (red dots and blue dental bridge threaders are shown to clarify the hole locations). Be sure to locate holes approximately midway up the box?s sidewall. Hole position will vary with the size and style of the fly. One will be in line with the gut loop, and the second will be approximately mid point of the hook gape.

o Photo 2. Loop a 20? piece of tippet or monofilament line (4X or finer) through the gut loop of the fly and then out the right side of the box (fluorescent pink thread is used in the photo for clarity only in the example). A bobbin threader or plastic dental bridge threader works well to fish the tippet through the holes. Then wrap the tippet around the outside perimeter to the opposite side, through the hole and around the bend of the hook and back outside the hole.



o Photo 3. Pull the tippet snugly to stabilize the fly inside the bottom half of the box. Then tape the loose ends of tippet to the side of the box bottom with Scotch tape.

o Photo 4. The lid will then fit tightly over the tippet and lock it in place. If one really wants to get organized, the tape can be replaced with a narrow label with the fly name, date tied and other relevant data.

This method allows the flies to be displayed, handled and transported while keeping them in good condition. They can also now be stored on edge in a manner similar to a card catalog. I have also found that a 6? x 12? clear plastic shoe box will hold more than fifty full dress flies in this manner.

Dave White
2/18/05